Day 9 page 2

Most of the building where the Alberques are set up are several hundreds of years old.  So the showeres and the toilets are all set up in the same corner.  In the rooms there is not really any 

privacy to speak of but it's good to turn to a corner to protect your "junk" while changing.  You have your own shower but you could be next to a female, you have your own toy let but your next to a female and that is just the way it is. This is probably the hardest thing that I have gotten use to.  If there is a emblem of a boy and a girl on the door just be wear that you may have a visitor of the other jender.

I was able to get a room with just 8 beds, one young Japenese and two older Swedish ladies.

 

Lesson learned.....Don't judge. 

Day 9

I need to jump back then a ahead then now.

A lot of the trail is single track in that it is only wide enough for one person to walk.  If you hear someone coming up behind you it's good manners to step aside and let them pass.  When the iPeter and Tony and I was coming out of Larrasoana I came up behind a tall thin lady wearing a summer dress a large sun hat carrying a very large stuff animal that looked like Tigger the Tiger.  She steped aside so I could pass and I looked her in the face.  At the rest stop Peter asked if I seen her, I told Peter I did but it was not a her.  She got into the rest stop as we were leaving and I never saw her again until last night when she was trying to get into the Alberque......it was full.

I have ascertained that the farmers are in their fields so long that they have place picnic tables in a corner so as the family can bring their lunch out and they can have a proper meal.  As I left Los Arcos this morning and got into the fields, because the Alberques were full she had made camp on one one the farmers picnic tables.

Me...you camp here last night

She....yes I had to, every place was full

Me...did you have an air mattress 

She....no but it was nice,I did alright.  It's usually better if I can get off by my self.

We spoke for a few more minutes....she was genuine, a real genuine person.

I gave her an apple and a power bar, and some water for her breakfast.  She thanked me profusely and I left her there rolling up her sleing bag.

In just a few minutes in came to me lowed and clear....the way just taught me my first lesson about life.

It wasn't hard getting out of the city this morning, again just follow the back pack on front of you.  My ambition for the day was to do 17.5 miles to Logrono.  At the first stop where I ate my second breakfast of 36 oz. of coke and a sweet cake I met up with yet some old friends that had my same rhythm.  We all decided that perhaps it would be a good bet to bed down in Viana just to be safe.  Even with that it took me 7hrs of steady walking to get here.  We had to pass a almond orchard along our path and guess who was the tallest....yep me.  I could here them before I got there.......he can reach them......all the low ones were gone.  All this time I thought they were young peaches.  I filled every ones hat and then reaped my harvest where several pilgrims were cracking them with rocks.  My fee was 10%.  A very nice flavor.....better than store bought by far.  About three miles out of town the friends of the camino had set up a stand in the shade with chairs.  Home made jam, bread, cookies, cold drinks, fresh fruit, tomatoes all free or a small donation if you are able.  A lot better then the snakes we had the other day.....I love you too Jan.

 

Day 8 page 2

Well I get my room and I am completely surrounded by Germans all speaking German of course.  I am tired and hungry but I know I have at least two hours before the restaurants open for the evening.  I get in the shower and put fresh cloths on and get on my bunk.  Top bunk no less.  So the German ladies come back frm their shower and are just sitting on their bunks talking.....in their nickers.  Why I have no idea except that it is hot.  The way the bed are arranged I have to ways to go.  I can lay on my back and look stright at the  celling or I can la on my right side and look at the wall, or I can lay on my left side and look at a German ladies croch.  I pick the wall.  I figure if I wait long enough they will get dressed.  Not so.  So I go to town to get dinner at sit on a park bench unti 7:00 and the restaurant opens.  The head man brings me a menue and I can make out combination dinners.  So i point and I actually luck out.  Egg and chips.....but get this.  Last night it was 8e to night it was 18e. 

But the people are friendly.....

Day 8

I must of needed the rest day more than I thought.  All I did was snuzz and then I pulled my boots and went to bed.  We did a smart thing in leaving the Alberque in Estella and finding a hotel.  I never realized that the Spain bike race was on and it took up all the beds in the town.  I did love the town though, very nice people.  Once again got up before the butt crack of dawn and headed out.  Just like in the, movie the way I stepped out onto the side walk and went the wrong way.  Had to turn around and follow the outher pilgrims out of town.  I left Peter the Doctor at the hotel he wanted another day of rest.  I actually forgot to pack socks but I did have  two pair.  Several days ago I was in a little mom and pop and they had some so I bought two pair.  I knew they were very thin like dress socks and I almost through them away.  This morning I got looking at them and decided that they may make a good skin sock.  Soil pulled them on and then put my heavy sock over them.  Worked like a charm.  My feet did so much better I may have to pass it on to pilgrims are us.  The pull out so Estilla was quite steep as usual but once I got out it was not so bad.  I was worried about today in that the last five miles there is no water taps, no food, no shade.  But St James was smiling at us poor pilgrims and caused it to be a high over cast, so it was a lot cooler then the other days we have had.  I didn't even need to wear my hat until about noon.  I pinned my ball hat to the pack and wore my floppy hat for shade, worked very well.  Just out side of town the Monks had a wine fountain.....see picture.  Yes free, can you imagine how happy that would make the residents of Pioneer Park in Salt Lake City.  Several pilgrims were toasting each other with cockle shale full of wine.  Some what traditional I guess.  After the fountain the road split, one could either go through the mountains or stay down low.  I was worried as to more rain so I took the low road.  In a  other couple of miles I stopped at a mom and pops and met up with about eight people from the first night in Orrison.  Hugs all around.  I must look like hammered ow.l shit in that every one asked me again how I was holding up.....no Im getting concerned.  And once again people would not believe I was raised in Utah....the accent thing again.  Coming across the valley it was wide open all I could see was the curvature of the earth and I just kept thinking where the hell could this town be hiding.  And then wa-la it was nestled in a little valley.  One of the great things the road out side of town was lined thick with black berries.....tasted so great.  I couldn't figure out why the villagers are not out picking.  Finially got into Los Arcos and found the Alberque where I could stay, but no bottom bucks, not on my room any way.  I left my small pack on the bed and went back out for the big pack when I came back I was challenged by a German lady if the pack was mine.  So I guess I am among honest people.  I told her I could tell her every thing in the pack, even the things that smelt the worst.

For all of you that's concerned I am well and looking forward to tomorrow.

Lesson for the day;  Just like pick up trucks, a man can't have too much hat.

More rest day.....

I finially figured out how illegals learn English so fast, it's through necessary things like wanting to eat or get some water.  I came out of my room at 2:00 the place was deserted, now at four, it's a mad house again.  Tried to find a shop to get a wider cooler hat...not going to happen. I see some pilgrims coming in looking for a room.  Yep we all walk the same.  I have a drug store across from my hotel I need to get some sun lotion if they ever open up.  It's true they all take a nap during the heat of the day.

I will tell you what old pilgrims (over 60) out number the younger, why I have no idea.

Need to go wash my socks.......

Lesson learned.......you can't shop when you want.......

To be continued......... 

Day 7

While getting ready to leave the alberque this morning I bumped into Peter from Austria young man in his late twentys and a medical doctor that speaks Spanish.  He noticed that I was holding back and I explained that I was going to have a rest day.  He said he was taking two in that his feet and legs were trash.  He went on to explain that the first pair of boots that he bought had cut the circulation off and his toe went numb so he bought a new pair. Just two weeks ago.  Not being broken in properly they lamed him.  He is going self medicate and then if that doesn't help he wil bail. We agreed to find a hotel or "pensioner" together.  He could hardly walk.  Across the stree from the Alberque was a little. Very clean bar that sold real sanwiches a drinks to the pilgrims.  I had a egg buddy a sweet roll and three cokes.  I don't want to be too graffic but I only need to pee once in the morning and once at night.  I drink real coke for the sugar and calories.  You can't believe how they slip down. While there I ran into Rich an attorney from Cal.  He's bailing.  Ran into Lucy this is her fifth time and she is bailing. She kissed me on both cheeks like the French do and started to cry. I am not sure why five times because her English is not that good, but it had to with the spirt of the way that she thrived on. Mike the strange one was in there from Oregon, he sat his bag down and was taking pictures yesterday and when he turned back around it was gone.  He spent the day with the police.  I offered him money in that every thing here is on a cash only bases.  He said he was fine that way and tapped his chest meaning he had a pouch around his neck.  He has to bail but said it's only temporary, he will be back.

Mary a teacher as Peter and I if she could hang with us today in that she needed a rest day and didn't want to be alone in the city.  She speaks Spanish very well so the answere had to be yes.  We all got our own rooms at the pensioner for 30e, works for me.  Very small ran by a very sweet lady in her late 80,s.  I still need to go back down and pay her and get my pilgrim passport stamped.  No stamp no staying at the alberques......very strict.  I have a death march to morrow of 13.1 miles the last seven miles there is no food or water.  I need to be very careful with this part.  

Lara from Panama was with us last night and I told her I needed tape for my feet.  We went in and spoke with the drugest he wrote down a note and told me to take it down the street to a different shop.  It turned out to be the tape you see on real sport people in all kinds of color.  Very pricey but well worth it.  I am well impressed with it.

Tomorrow I will be going from Estella to Los Arcos there is tow ways to go, one over a mountain and one around the mountain, not sure yet which trail I will take, but while writing this I actually feel the excitement welling up inside of me.  Could this be what they write about when they write as to the spirt of the way.  

Day six photo

Night shots......