9/19/2014

This blogg will wrap it up......

 I am on the bus with my new friend and she tells me that I need to take the subway to the air port from the Paris bus station and hands me a map.  The map looked like your grandmothers sewing kit with all the threads mixed/mashed......lines went all over and in every direction across the page.  I was getting nervous again.  In studying  the map I would need to change trains three times to get on the B3 to CDG12 air port.  I thought about the cab thing and studied how far the bus station would be from the air port.  I had 70e left in my wallet I am sure it would be enough for a taxi.  As we pulled into the bus station I spotted 8 taxie lined up waiting fairs.  Got off the bus and walked over to the lead taxie and asked how much to CDG.  He wrote on a piece of paper 35/40e.  I was about to become a fish in that I am sure if I ran off the meter the fair would of been around 20 e.  What the hell if I can get to the air port I will be home free.  I just endured a 12 hour bus ride and I am about to do a 12 hour plane ride as well.

Well you all know the rest......home safe and sound and humbled from the last four weeks of the camino and all it brought to my soul.

The camino absolutely strips you of any pretense of who you are or what you might think you are. Then what enters is the true spirit of mankind.  I have memories to last a life time.  Stories for a hundred camp fires.  It's hard to explain but I now know ex actually who I am, what it is I love, what it is that is important to me and what I can actually do with out. 

So this is it this adventure has ended and this blogg is now officially off the air.

The final lesson learned:    But for the grace of God go I.

                             I LOVE YOU ALL EQUALLY................

continued as promised.......

First let me give you a run down.  You talk about the great unwashed well it's me.  No correction, my body's clean.  I am wearing a block U utes shirt that hasent been washed for at least 10 days.  My socks have only been rung out in the sink.  My walking shorts have never been washed......what nickers........I have on brown sandles and a dirty ball cap that stinks of sweat.  I know I tried to put it over my eyes on the bus but couldn't stand the smell.

I have brown stripes on my calves where the sun has been baking me.  I have not shaved for a week and the hair on my head has been allowed to grow since  I have left home. In fact I am trying to remember what side I use to part it on.  The only thing that would top me off is instead of having one of those flight pillows around my neck would be to have a toilet seat.

I think you got the picture.

Ok this is true, true, true......picture the above with the addition of having toilet paper stick to my shoe in the air port.

So ok here we go........so remember I am thinking that I can just get to the bus and no problem.  And you remember that the trains out of here were booked three days forward.   ( some mother just pulled her kid back from starring at me)   So any way I find a hotel that is just two blocks from the big cathedral that I showed you.  I have nothing to do but walk around.......and this place is as big as the Vatican.......and take pictures.  I am over there so much that they want me join up.  There  are people busking on the street.   Singing, Indian dancing, three piece band...stuff like that.  I am watching these people all day every day that I am marooned here.  They are thinking that I am a talent scout...?hell why else would I watch them for three days.

I bought my ticket on Sunday, I can't leave until Tuesday, I have watched on t.v. and in Spanish. "Lady hog catchers, nude survival.......I'm dead serious......locker bidders, car restorers ( my favorite) okey mud cat noodlers, the list goes on.  So finially I can't stand it any longer and I go to the bus station that is just a block away 90 min early just for a change of pace.

I am watching the marquee for my bus and it's not showing up.  What is showing up is three different departures that say France. And I am wondering if any of the three might be my bus.  If I miss my bus now I will cut my wrist.  I am trying to ask the ticket lady why my bus is not on the marquee and a real nice young lady comes to me, who can speak English, French,  Spanish.......as soon as I get home I am taking a corespondent corse..........and she says let me speak for you.  So we find out my bus will either be late by 15 min or 30 min and will be on either 1,2, or 3 platform.  Just watch for me she says I am going to Paris as well, I won't let them leave you.

While we are waiting another victim of the camino comes limping out to where we are she has a scarf wrapped around her knee and can hardly walk.  I took another ace bandage out of my pack and asked my new friend to ask her if she wanted my help.  Tell her not to be afraid I said my wife is a doctor......I couldn't resist......she got on a different bus then us but was very grateful.

I had a 12 hour bus ride to Paris......remember I took the 180 mile an hour bullet train three weeks ago and covered the same distance in about three hours.

To be continued........

Day 19

Trying to exit the camino was proving to be more difficult then doing the camino.  As I told youbefore I had a young man helping me on the Alberque computer which by the way cost 1e for 20 minutes to operate.  The trains to Paris were prebooked full for three days and at the time we could not figure out why.  What Sandy and I found out later was Air France was just hours away from a strike, so not wanting to be left high and dry folks were booking the train.  I thought that I would have a better chance with a bus but I neede to get back to Burgos.  My ipad has a Spanish/English translated app that proved its weight in gold.  I printed out the fact that I wanted a taxi ordered for the following day to take me to Burgos and then handed the pad to the Alberque help.  She was most impressed with the tech knowledge.  She got right on the phone and ordered a taxie.  10:00 a.m. Be ready to go.  The taxie was right on time.  When it picked me up it also had two young ladies in the back from Sweden.  One could speak English very well and said they were going to get a train to Madrid.  I asked them if they already had their tickets.  They never and I didn't have the heart to tell them what I knew..  

When we got to the the bus terminal I got out to get my bag out of the trunk and asked the driver how much I owed him.  He wrote 40e in the dust on the cab.  I thought he had made a 2 instead of a 4 he was good natured about it but thought I was trying to stiff him for 20e.  I knew about what it would cost in that the fairs were posted in the lobby of the Alberque.  I gave him another 20e and he was happy.  You need to remember that gas here is about $8.00  gal. American.  In the bus terminal I found out that a bus would not be leaving for three days.  Same as the train.  And I found out the bus ride is about 14 hrs long.  In the mean time Sandy is on the phone with Delta trying to get me back home and actually had my ticket changed three different times. She was on her phone and our iPads were on face time and I could hear her tell delta that I had contacted the hi- bolical-flip ups and was feebly trying to get home to modern medicine. I purchased the bus ticket for 89e and then found a hotel to kill time in.  While on the computer at the Alberque we checked into the air port at Burgos and found the only air line that I could get on was aTurkish air line for just over 500e I gave it a miss and went for the bus.    

I actually lost my pen bag several days ago and now was in the habit of pining my wet laundry on my pack to let the Spanish sun finish drying them.  When I went into the hotel lobby with my pack, unshaven for several days and my nickers and socks swinging back and forth it was me that looked the part of joe shit the rag man. But even so a credit card that works makes the lowest of man look like a king.  My check out time is 12 noon which means I have 9 hours on the street to kill time waiting for the bus.  Like it or not I will need to go for one more day on the room and then leave about 8:30.  I figured that on the street all I would do is spend money, so even if I don't sleep the last day I pay for it will be better then being on the street. 

This one will be continued.......

Day 18 pic

Old men playing stuff in the bar

Day 18

Well dear readers I am afraid I have reached the end of the trail.....well for me any way.  All hiking boots and running shoes as you know have a hard rubber cap on the sole.  Underneath this cap is a soft spongy material that is put there for your heal strike.  Once you wear the hard cap thru then obviously it's time for new boots/shoes.  I bought these boots some two years ago and broke them in softly by taking walks and such.  In all honesty they were in very good shap when I came on this trip, but I can not even begin to explain the terrain I have been across.  And to be honest I do have a tendency to skuff a bit when I walk and I do have a pronation.  So adding all these things up took its due.

I gave serious thought as to taking a taxi back to Burgos, buying a new pair of boots then switch back and forth.  It would put me back a day but the rest would probably do me good.  I wasn't keen on packing the extra weight of an extra pair of boots, so I had to give that some extra thought.

So in emailing Sandy back and forth all decided that it was time to come home.

As I sit here writing pilgrims are heading out of town on to what ever today brings them.  My ego is going mad.  I have to keep going inside myself and remember what the camino for me was all about.  Not a foot race.  No prize at the end.  No balloon arch way that been erected for the finishers.  None of that.  The camino just is. Every one is here for a personal reason of their own.  And I have heard some great reasons.  Cancer survivor, loved ones lost, relationships ended, the list goes on and on. For me, I always said, I don't know why, I hope to find out on the trail.  I think I did find out, in fact I found out several reasons......all personal.

I have walked about seven feet less then 250 miles, just about half way.  In doing the math I think I would need an additional 10 days  more than the five weeks that I had originally planed on.  There is no doubt in my mine that if I would of asked for it Sandy would of went along.....no questions asked.  But a funny thing was starting to happen to my mind, I started to think more about home then I did the camino.  My friends I was getting home sick.....I want my kids, my g- kids, my home, and most of all my wife.  As I walked I thought more of sitting in the back yard at even- tide then I did of all the history I was passing thru and I will tell you it was volumes.

The Spanish love their kids. their old, their dogs and bread.  I have left my wallet on the bed while I showered.....no problem.  I have left my passport on the desk, to have it returned several times.  Just last night my walking poles were brought to me from a block away.  I wanted to know how I was tracked down but their was this language thing that keeps getting in the way of explanations.

So my dear friends and family that is it.  I will be shutting down this blog in a few days.  I hope you have enjoyed my travels and the pictures.  And what ever road YOU choose to travel, let just two words that cover it all......Buen Camino.

Day 17 pic.

Day 17. 9/13/14

.Once again I was up and out before sun up.  I ate a power bar for breakfast and started on the trail.  The Spanish do not get up early......not for nothing.  I could hear a dog bark some place and a rooster crow but that was all.  I knew I had a long Mesa to travel and it would be an all day treck.  I was right.  But dear readers we have a problem.....my boots have lost the hill. I knew I had a pronation and between that and the road I am traveling I am now getting concern as to the equipment.  Going up the first Mesa was not a problem.  I do better going up then coming down.  I got up and walked across and then it was stright down.  I did my usuall baby steps being very careful of foot placement and finially got to the flat. Walking into the next village I had the grocer make me a ham and cheese sand which and washed it down with my usual three cokes.....?Love that stuff.    Walked through that village and then headed towards the next Mesa.  I was just starting up when I heard my name called.  In turning around it was Joy and Ed on bikes. We had been leap forging from day one.  Hey you two what's with the bikes.  They had planed on riding the 100  miles that the Mesa called for in that it was too  shit to walk it.  I told them right off I wasn't pleased with the bikes in that they were far from mountain bikes.  As we spoke several other pilgrims came past and in several foreign languages told them the same thing as to the tires being all wrong and made their point by tapping the tires. In answering their question as to how I was holding up, I told Ed that I was worried about my boots and then sat on a rock with my feet in the air.  Hummm was his answere.  Their not going to last you Richard.  What you can do is take a bus and hop ahead 100 miles and then you will be back in some decent country that looks like Ireland and much more enjoyable to walk in.  That's why we rented the bikes, to get across this next 100 miles as quick as possible.  Well how did you get behind me I asked.  We got a hotel and slept for 16 hours, that's how.  We got kind of a camino bug that kept us in one place with a bathroom of our own.  Humm that sounded too familiar and I had been wondering if I was starting to stress.  Walking for seven and eight hours stright will fatigue you.  I started to do a body read out and was wondering if I was putting too much stress on my self by not taking rest days.  Before they left Joy looked at me and said, Richard how are you really feeling.  You are a lot thinner now then when we started in St Jean.  As we spoke she gave me a run down on who else had gone home from the day one group.  She also told me of all who was still behind me.

I had to do some thinking.  I decided that I would get a hotel room for at least one day and rest.  The problem is when I got into......where the hell I'm at....every thing was full.  Pilgrims with cell phones will call a head and book rooms, leaving the rest of the great unwashed to fend for their selves.   I settled for a municipal Alberque which turned out to be really all right.  It filled up in a hurry and are putting people on the floor on mattresses.  Some where I lost my soap and went across the street to the ......get this.......supermarket.  No bigger then my kitchen....but they had a bar of soap. 

Went out to get some dinner.....you guessed it not until seven.  Ye gods how do these people survive.

I can only get wifi in the lobby.  As I sit here writing they are putting people on the floor in the kitchen.  This whole town is full.  Tomorrow is about 13 miles to the next Alberque all across the Mesa.  As I sit here every one is trying to call ahead.  There is a German that speaks Spanish and English he is a pilgrim that is working his ass off for the company.  They have a list of Alberque in the next village and he is telling them what is already full.  I am still thinking on some personal issues.  I made some promises to Sandy before I left that at any sign of something wrong I would call it.  Maybe that's what I neede to hear, after 13 miles no bed.......hummmm m.  Let me check with the boss and I will get back to you. Still sitting in the lobby it is 6:40 and a lady came in from the trail looking for a room.  Nothing.  An old man is helping her with translation....every where is full and it will be a foot race for tomorrow.  Finially they said they would put her on the floor.....she started to cry, the help started to cry, hugs all around.....and I will be a son of a bitch if I didn't get something in my eye.   

Lesson learned: when there is room in the heart, there is room in the home.

Day 16. 9/12/1

The place where I stayed had the usual pilgrim breakfast of bread and jam and coffee.  I wanted to hang back just a tad in that for the first four hours I would be on paved roads and side walks and I wanted then cars to see me.  For a change it was easy going, I had to walk around some construction that took about an extra mile.got into Burgos about noon.  For some reason I couldn't publish last night so I stopped into a. Ar and had a coke and donut just so I could use the wifi.  It still never worked.  A few minutes later I bumped into a couple I knew that just come from the hotel. Her knee is gone and they were trying to rest it.  He gave me the wifi code and I snuk into the lobby of this very swank hotel and still no luck.  Walking out of Burgos I started to worry about Sandy in that the rule was I had to stay in contact and now I was not even able to email.  With this on my mine I got off on the wrong street.  A very nice lady stopped me and spoke in very good English.  Excuse me but you want to go down that street with the yellow building.  I thanked her and was again on my way.  It took me a good hour to get through Burgos in that it is a huge city.  I stopped at the cathedral .....see pic....and stopped to take some pic.  A lady came to me selling tissue....what could I do a business woman.  I bought a package and watch as she went from one pilgrim to the next. After I left there two young Chinese boys came to me and asked if I spoke English.  They did and very well.  They were looking for the Alberque that was suppose to be near by.  I had seen it and pointed them in the right direction.  I felt so useful.  I walked past a huge menta hospital that looked just like a prison.  I was going to take a picture but thought better of it in that I was worried about my camer being confiscated.  Why I don't know to much T.V. I guess.  I finially made it out of town and was wondering how far the next village was.  A man and his mother was walking and so I stopped them and asked in my best Spanish.  He started to laugh and said, hey I from the Bay Area......cal,......we both had a good laugh, spoke for a few minutes and then I moved on.  Another great thing.....when I was in the middle of Burgos I was standing there looking lost and a biker jumped up from his coffee and came to me telling me to stay on this street for 5k nice guy looking out for an old man.  I was only going to go to Billabilla but missed the turn and went into Tarjados.....glad to get there in that I walked almost eight hours.  I am feeling good feet are doing fine......looking forward to tomorrow.

Lesson for today:  those who don't look like they speak English do.  Those that do don't.....

Day 15 pic

Day 15

The Spanish don't eat until 7:00 to 7:30, but I was starved.  Went to the restaurant and asked for a menue and she just tapped  her watch and said 7 in Spanish.  Seven thirty I am in bed and mow I am hungry very hungry.  I noticed some sandwiches so I pointed to one and asked for my usual two cokes.  After dinner....such that it was.....I looked for the trail so as I could find it first thing in the morning.  Literally right across the street I would start my climb.  Insurveying the situation I knew that it would be best if I tackled it with some day light. So it was this morning I sat on the bench in front of the Alberque until I could kinda see where I was going.  In starting my climb I knew I had done the right thing in holding back.  It was like climbing through an old creek bed, rocky and stright up.  This lasted for about 200 yards and then I broke out on a fairly good trail but still going stright up.  I was worried about the rain.  The sky looked like it may poor at any time, but in front of me I could see what promised to be blue sky.  I hurried on in that I never had my pack covered with the rain sheld.  I was still climbing up when it started to sprinkle.  I was not concerned in that I could still see what was to be blue sky.  Then it down poored for about twenty minutes.  I was only worried about my bum bag in that is where I had my ipad.  Finially it was doneand i was out of it.  The sun came out and as I walked I dried off.  All was well with the weather and it was all blue sky, and I might add a nice breeze.  I had some orange juice and dry cereal for breakfast and that had been long gone.  Finially about 11:00 I found breakfast/ lunch.  It was a kind of a meat pie fold over baked in the oven kind of thing.  It could of been yesterday's dog but I was good with it, and of course washed it down with the usuall three cokes.  I got over the mountains that I was looking forward to and walked right thru St Jaun de Ortega and carried on down the trail.  I had to start one last climb before I was done with the Spanish mountains and would start the remaining of my pilgrimage on the plains of Spain.  As I climb up ( see photo) it wa like the craters of the moon.  I picked my way very carefully one step at a time and then I seen it.  The cross and pile of stones.  This is where I would toss the stone that I brought all the way from Fish Springs Utah that I had picked up while spotting Sue on her altar 100 miler two years ago.  It never had the drama that I thought it would have.  I just fished the stone out, kissed it, thought about all those I love.....which took a minute, and tossed it on the pile and then moved on.    Later on the road split I could see Burgos off in the distance, but doable and for about two hundred yards I took the trail heading in that direction.  As I looked down in the a valley to my left I could see the young man I met at the monument walking in the other direction.  I knew Burgos would half to be another 4 or5 miles in the distance so I made the decision to turn around and take the outher trail.  I came into a small village about 2:30 every one was in for the sesta.  No one was out, nothing moved.  I found water in the center of the square but that was it.  I filled my bottles and moved on.  I was thinking that this would be the night that I would sleep out side and then as I rounded a corner of the road here was an old bus painted in multi colors advertising an Alberque 400m down the road.  It's been my experiance that the municipal Alberque is the way to go.  They are only 5e and have plenty of room.  The privet ones stuff beds in and way they can get them in that they make money off each bed.  On this one I missed my guess.  I have 16 beds in a room that's no bigger then my master bed room at ,home.  For 16 pilgrims their is one shower, one toilet and one sink.  I am head to head with a guy that's a dead ringer for an Alaska brown bear.  I showered while someone was taking a piss, and some one else was wasing out socks.......yeah I have adjusted since being here......but I have a bed and it was a good day after all.

Lesson learned:  it's further then it looks.  

Day 14 pics

Day 14 9/10/14

To day was one of those do I or don't I days.  Getting from Belorado to Villafranca was not a big deal.  The only thing that initially concerned me was once again I never waited around for breakfast.  I usuall find something to eat in the next village in that some enterprising Spaniard is always there with coffee and sandwiches.  Problem being the trail took us around the first two villages and about 8:00 I started to get concern as to my energy level.  Last night as I had dinner with Peter the doctor he was figuring out calorie intake and out go.  I know I am not taking enough in, in that I have lost a little weight.  I told you a couple of days ago I lighten my load by leaving some cloths for good will.  Well the shorts I left were tight when I left on this venture.  I wore them once to dinner and they just fell off my hips.  So getting back to breakfast, I stopped in the center of a little village ( the fountain pic) and ate a power bar.  A young man offered me a box of juice saying he was packing too much weight.  Took it with a great deal of thanks and down the same.  

Again it was dark when I left the Alberque so much so I needed my light to spot the signs.  The moon was just coming off full and lit the trail quite well.  As I walked I got thinking about the midnight bike rides my son Darin use to drag us all on out in Rush Valley.  As I walked along I got thinging about Mary Ann feeding us a dutch oven breakfast and her very young daughter being there who ultimately turned out to be my daughter inlaw and blessing me with three beautiful grandchildren......what a world. 

The big decision I had to make was to go on our stop here.  I have three mountains to scale and I decided that it would be best todo on fresh legs.  For this little hike I need to carry food and water (as always) in that there is nothing in between.  I was early getting here and they usually won't let you in until 12:00 noon.  But I was welcomed with open arms.  I was just the second one here and I got thinging that perhaps I should of went on.  And then bam here they all came, the pace was full in an hour.  Every one was thinking what I was, they would do the hills on fresh legs.  We go from 800m tp 1200m three times.  As the crow flies it's nine miles but I don't think they allow for the up and downs.

I started to do the math last night Peter said I am well on track to finish with in my five weeks allotted time.  But I don't know..if the terrain flattens out I can speed up some.  It's suppose to be getting cooler so I have that in my favor for longer days.  The good news is, is that my body has started to adjust to my daily walks, I am sleeping better, and my feet are fine.  My only concern is my boots are starting to wear. I will just need to check them daily.

This has been such an language experiance for me.  As I write this they are working on an old building across the street.  I was trying to find out why they are taking it down.  The lady here speaks French and Spanish, no English.  A young man came to my rescue in that he spoke French and English, and that's how you get around Spain.  Somebody knows what it is you are trying to say and comes to your rescue.

Watching now as the last beams come down and I am thinking how my cousin Bill who is a wonderful wood worker, would love to have at least one.

Lesson for today:   Breakfast is the most important meal of the day.  Never leave home with out it.

To be continued........ 

Day12 pic

Day 13

Once again my bed was very nice and almost privet.  I think my body has adjusted to the jet lag thing in that I am actually dreaming while I sleep.  But wouldn't you know it my second good nights sleep in a roll and some fool alarm goes off at 3:00 and it took him a good sixty seconds to find it to shut it off. After I got saddled up I came out of the room and there on the table was orange juice muffins and milk.  I'm thing yes a pilgrims breakfast, so I start taking my back pack off and some German as nice as he can be and in as good as he can speak English tells me he ordered it for his party.  I tried the best I could to put the wrapper back on the muffin but it wasn't working for me.  He said, ok ok go go and laughed.  So the Germans just came  two notches on my opinion pull. Hummmm I wonder if he noticed the juice.

Left the Alberque in the dark bu had a good idea where to start heading to cut trail.  Fox were barking owls were hooting but other than that just dark in the forest.  More by accident then good timing I looked down and seen the "yellow arrow" I was on the right track.  The sun came up in the east as it always does and I found my breakfast of a egg buddy and three cokes.  The sandwich was suppose to have some ham on it but it was cut so thin that it could of been left over from a biopsy, so I won't count the meat as being there.  The trail wasn't a bad hike on the ol feet for the most part but it did take me one bottle of water to get to the next village.  I could see the fountain spilling water and I am thinking refill.  As I get to the fountain their is a red international sign that basically said some one peed on the pool.......don't drink here.  I moved on with an empty bottle, but still lesson learned I had two on the side.  In the next village I found lunch of ready made sandwich and you know what else coke.

With no shade and no place to really rest I just kept on the move.  People that had passed me were now passing me again.  Several Japanese past me with leggons and long sleeve shirts and scarves on their heads.  I wonder what they know about the heat that I don't.  On any case they seemed to just go along.  Walked into Belorado in good time and go a room in a very nice Alberque.  They serve dinner here as well as breakfast.  They have a laundry so I thought that I best take advantage of it.  A lady in front of me pulled a pillow a sleeping bag loner and a weeks worth of wash for the machine.  Little did I know but that she broke it.  I put my cloths in and my 3e, it washed but never spun them dry.  So I wung them by hand and set them on the fence to dry.  At dark I will put them on the dryer just to make sure.  While in the laundry Peter the doctor from Australia came in he caught up with me from a couple of days ago.  Seen one lady walking in flip flops, and another in socks, just because their feet were shot.  As for me my feet are holding up but I am concerned about my boots.  In side corner on the right is wore off.  It doesn't surprise me what with the terrain being what it has been.  

Tomorrow will be a short day in that I need to do three mountains in one day.  No food, no water, so I my plan is to go for it fresh...no choice in the matter.

Just had dinner with Peter and two of his friends....he is single, rich and good looking, so you know who I had at the table.  Oh I forgot....Peter had to sleep in a barn last night in that all the Alberques were full.  Another reason I just keep going.......

Lesson for today:  make sure the fountain works before you dump your old water.

Day 12

As I told you I stayed in a real nice Alberque last night.  Only two beds to a room and very privet.  My roomie was an older gentleman from Germany that spoke English very well.  This is his fifth camino.  I asked why and his answere was why not.  I got confused last night as to dinner, it seems that they had a pilgrims dinner all set up as part of the celebration.  They usuall don't start eating until 7:00 but they were done at 7:00 so I went in to town and found some potted meat, bread and a couple of bananas. As I was eating a lady and her partner came in, she was limping so bad that she couldn't put any weight on her foot.  There was no ice so a runner went around the corner and got some from a bar.  We iced it and put a wrap on it.  She was done and she knew it.  I met her and her partner that first night.  Now they were on the phone arranging for a taxi to goto the bus station then the train station then back to Canada.  I don't know how long the Harvest celebration went on but it started to rain.  The locals were all rejoicing in it.  I got two more bottles of water from the cooler drank both and went to bed about 7:30, I was done.  I must be sleeping better because I actually had a dream.  Got up and was well on my way before 7:00.  On climbing out of Ciruena the trail was like a cobbled road. As you put your foot down your ankle wanted to go one way and your knee wanted to go the opposite. I picked my trail very cautiously.  I have never seen a country with so much rock.  Just as I made the top of the hill and about three miles from Santo Domingo the friends of the camino were set up with food and drinks.  I have them a good donation in that I take more tha my share of coke.  Going into Sato Domingo was fair going the only thing that was bothering me was that I was getting low on cash.  Every thing here is done in cash and I wasn't sure what was ahead of me.  Sometimes the trail takes you through the outside of town, sometimes right down the middle.  As I got into town I seen a tourist info office.  I stopped in and asked about a bank.  She drew me a map, I hesitated but gave it a go and actually found a credit union with a cashmachines. Two things haunt me out here, water and money.....you need both to live.  After getting my money I found the trail again and made my way out of town.  It was like yesterday no one was behind or in front.  And then the damnest thing happen I actually felt that I could actually take a piss.  Hell yeah right in the middle of the road.....been days since I peed in the middle of the day.  To day the heat was actually bearable in that big white clouds were in a sky so blue that it reminded me of being a kid and laying on the grass making figures and faces.  And I will be damed even a breeze came up....a very good day for walking.  As I approached Granon a man handed be a brochure as to a abregue that belonged to his family.  I got to the turn off and I could see nothing down the road that even looked like an Alberque.  Hummm but he did say it was in a forest.  I took the turn off and started to walk across the valley.  After I had gone about a half mile I seen another pilgrims had thake the road as well.  She was from  Holland and said that she had hear good things about it.  It took a good hour to get to it but oh my hell what a place.  It use to be a villa then they turned it into a Alberque.  Absolutely gorgeous, dinner was great and a privet room.  Very nice people.

  

Day 11 page 2

What I normally do is get into an Alberque and then find my bed.  I don't even sit on the bed because I am wet, wet, wet and dirty.  So I get a shower and then I do my wash usually by hand in a deep sink.  If I can find a place I will hang them to dry, but because I can't wring them out too well they are still damp in the morning.  So I put them in a pen bag ( just like the joint ) and then hang them on my back pack.  The Spanish sun drys them as I walk along.  So in the evening I have clean socks and clean nickers......wa-la.  This afternoon the receptionist offered to do them for me in a proper washer and dryer.  I gave her a tip of 5e she started to cry......these people are so emotional.  Wifi cost 1e for 20 min. and I thought we were capItalist, so I am sending the pictures now.

Lesson learned:    Jesus forgive me when I wine,

                              I am just like you, the world is mine.

Day 11 sept 07-2014

Last might I stayed in a mom and pops Alberque.  Not as nice as the municipal ones but oh hell do they try hard.  I got up and pack by the light of a small flash light.  Entering the streets in the dark I got turned around and wasn't sure which way was out of town.  So what do I do dig in my pack for my trusty compass that Boss Bob gave me for the trip.  I found true north and started west in that I knew I was heading west across Spain and I would cut the path sooner or later.  I picked  the trail in good time but something was wrong.  I had no breakfast in that this Alberque didn't offer it, but that wasn't it.  Finially as I walked along it came to be, I was still packing too much weight.  At first I thought I would get rid of some stuff at the end of the day, but then decided I had to act sooner.  At 9:00  I found breakfast, three cokes a banana and a sweet roll.  I took my last coke and went out to a table and started to go through my pack.  Just then I heard "her" voice.  Richard can I share your table, it was Andrea.  Yesterday she was Andrew, but to day she came clean.  Hell yes, why ask.  She rolled herself a ciggy and I teased her about killing herself.  She thought that was pretty funny, and said she could quit any time.  She thanked me again for breakfast and told me she slept in the fields again.  But met some people that shared breakfast with her.  I had made a pile of throw downs that I had to get rid of.  I needed more water and was packing all the weight I could.  I left a hoody, my p.j. every one just sleeps on top the sheet in their nickers any way.  I left a very nice pair of multi walking shorts, both pair of zip off pant legs and a shirt.  As I was packing up Andrea was telling some other pilgrims that seem to have befriended her that she slept in the fields again with no air mattress.  I hollered her over to where I was packing up.  I have a present for you, and gave her my state of the art blow up mattress.  It was the thing to do.  Richard would it be ok if I gave you a hug.  Hell yes, and with that she gave me a hug that basicly said thank you for, oh hell a lot of things.  For not being afraid of me, for being your own man, for accepting me, for not laughing at me....the list could be endless.  The hug was the kind I give my two sons, just a few seconds longer then normal.  Hugs that say, thanks boys for, for being the men you are.......I could go on but it's personal.

Four more miles down the road was another enterprising span yard with a lunch wagon but no water.  What the hell, give me three cokes and a apple.  The apple was delicious. I pushed on for Ciruena in that if I didn't I would either have a very short day or a very, very long one.  There is no water between Ciruena and santo Domingo so I wanted to make it as short as possible.  My path took me past miles and miles of vineyards.  I ate handful after handful of grapes.  No one behind me and no one in front of me, all I could see is the curvature of the earth.  I was starting to think I was on the wrong trail.  A local came biking towards me and I stopped him for information .  Nice man told me not to give up, do you have water, I will share.  We fist bumped and he was gone.  Thought I could see the steple of a church but wanted to be sure and walked further.  Sure enough I could see Cituena so I opened my last fresh bottle of water I purchased at lunched and downed the whole thing.  I find that by doing this it will bring up you water table and it's better way to go.  I still have one bottle left so I'm good.  As I came into town I could hear bands playing and fireworks going off.  Ironically it was a celebration of the harvest.  

Sandy and I was in Spain four years ago and enjoyed the same festival.  As I was trying to find my way through town the locals would call me to their table and offer me food.  I was trying to tell them that I was looking for the municipal Alberque but they did not understand English.  Wait, wait, you wait.  On just a few seconds a loco was drug from a bar that could speak English, very good English.  Can you tell me the way.  No, no good, you come with me.....he hand carried me to my destination.

Day 10 pic.

Day 10

Sept. 06-2014.

As I was marching out of Viana I was coming down the side walk and seen "her" at a side walk table having coffee and a cigarette.  When she seen me she jumped up and ran the last 20 yards towards me with her hand stuck out.  I want to thank you again for breakfast yesterday she said, it really warmed my heart.  I tried to counter with some philosophy but I am not sure how I sounded.  This time we warmly shook hands and exchanged names.  Her name was Andrew, which surprised me I thought sure it would be more feminist. I left her there....I will be along in good time! she said, I am not in a rush.

Getting across Logrono was a pain in the ass.  A very large city, but still for the way was marked very well.  I only had to ask one time if this was the camino.  I had come to a point where I had three choices, a jogger set me stright.  This is the first day where many, many locals whished me buen camino.  Lots of old people that were on my path would stop me and wish me well.....I guess any way in that I had no idea what else they were saying.  For the most of the day we were on the beaten path with a lot of joggers and bikers, all locals just doing their thing but well in my rode.  I was relived to finally leave the city behind.  The sun was a baker again to day, several of the pilgrims actually had umberillas to walk under. I wanted to push to Vetosa but I was melted and stopped at the first Alberque I came to.  It turns out it was the right thing to do in that I got the last bed, which means that those behind me will have to push on weather they want to or not.  If I had got to Vetosa and their were no beds I would of had to bivouac it some where.  I have booked a meal here in that the owners mother is doing the cooking, so I am looking forward to something home made.

I will tell you one thing about the Spanish they keep all their drinks cold,cold, cold.  Unlike your tipical 7-11.  But it's hot, I work up a sweat just packing my pack in the morning.  At night I just sleep on top of my blanket, no air conditioning at all, not that I have seen in any case. It seems that I caught up with the Germans again, and yes it's nickers city again but what the hell.  And to think I even brought a pair of PJ,s.  They will be the next thing I leave behind.  In fact today was the first day I really seen pilgrims emptying their loads.  Some real nice things were hanging in trees for any one to lay claim to.  I was surprised in that some things were really nice.

I don't know if I told you but the way is marked with a madilion that looks like a cockle shale.  The shale had about six spines that meet at the base.  The spines represent people coming from all walks of life and meeting in one place.  To point the right way the shale base is the right directions, the problem is, is that most of them are pointing the wrong direction in that the workers didn't understand the true meaning of the shale and think the spines are arrows.  Instead of correcting the wrong, a yellow arrow was painted under the madilion to point the true way.  What I have also learned was where these signs are positioned also counts so you need to stand for a moment and think about each one to make sure you made the right choice.  But then again just follow the back pack in front.

Also you need to know that for this adventure my wife bought me an ipad and on the back had the words "let the journey begin" which was very special to me.  It's a long story but right off the ipad was dropped and the screen was shattered.  I was able to obtain some tape to secure the screen with because I mean shattered.  So while I am writing I can't see half the screen so I don't know if I am hitting the right keys or not.....just bear with me if I don't make total sense.

Lesson learned:  wet socks are a soldiers worst enemies.

  

.

To be continued........

Day 9 page 2

Most of the building where the Alberques are set up are several hundreds of years old.  So the showeres and the toilets are all set up in the same corner.  In the rooms there is not really any 

privacy to speak of but it's good to turn to a corner to protect your "junk" while changing.  You have your own shower but you could be next to a female, you have your own toy let but your next to a female and that is just the way it is. This is probably the hardest thing that I have gotten use to.  If there is a emblem of a boy and a girl on the door just be wear that you may have a visitor of the other jender.

I was able to get a room with just 8 beds, one young Japenese and two older Swedish ladies.

 

Lesson learned.....Don't judge. 

Day 9

I need to jump back then a ahead then now.

A lot of the trail is single track in that it is only wide enough for one person to walk.  If you hear someone coming up behind you it's good manners to step aside and let them pass.  When the iPeter and Tony and I was coming out of Larrasoana I came up behind a tall thin lady wearing a summer dress a large sun hat carrying a very large stuff animal that looked like Tigger the Tiger.  She steped aside so I could pass and I looked her in the face.  At the rest stop Peter asked if I seen her, I told Peter I did but it was not a her.  She got into the rest stop as we were leaving and I never saw her again until last night when she was trying to get into the Alberque......it was full.

I have ascertained that the farmers are in their fields so long that they have place picnic tables in a corner so as the family can bring their lunch out and they can have a proper meal.  As I left Los Arcos this morning and got into the fields, because the Alberques were full she had made camp on one one the farmers picnic tables.

Me...you camp here last night

She....yes I had to, every place was full

Me...did you have an air mattress 

She....no but it was nice,I did alright.  It's usually better if I can get off by my self.

We spoke for a few more minutes....she was genuine, a real genuine person.

I gave her an apple and a power bar, and some water for her breakfast.  She thanked me profusely and I left her there rolling up her sleing bag.

In just a few minutes in came to me lowed and clear....the way just taught me my first lesson about life.

It wasn't hard getting out of the city this morning, again just follow the back pack on front of you.  My ambition for the day was to do 17.5 miles to Logrono.  At the first stop where I ate my second breakfast of 36 oz. of coke and a sweet cake I met up with yet some old friends that had my same rhythm.  We all decided that perhaps it would be a good bet to bed down in Viana just to be safe.  Even with that it took me 7hrs of steady walking to get here.  We had to pass a almond orchard along our path and guess who was the tallest....yep me.  I could here them before I got there.......he can reach them......all the low ones were gone.  All this time I thought they were young peaches.  I filled every ones hat and then reaped my harvest where several pilgrims were cracking them with rocks.  My fee was 10%.  A very nice flavor.....better than store bought by far.  About three miles out of town the friends of the camino had set up a stand in the shade with chairs.  Home made jam, bread, cookies, cold drinks, fresh fruit, tomatoes all free or a small donation if you are able.  A lot better then the snakes we had the other day.....I love you too Jan.

 

Day 8 page 2

Well I get my room and I am completely surrounded by Germans all speaking German of course.  I am tired and hungry but I know I have at least two hours before the restaurants open for the evening.  I get in the shower and put fresh cloths on and get on my bunk.  Top bunk no less.  So the German ladies come back frm their shower and are just sitting on their bunks talking.....in their nickers.  Why I have no idea except that it is hot.  The way the bed are arranged I have to ways to go.  I can lay on my back and look stright at the  celling or I can la on my right side and look at the wall, or I can lay on my left side and look at a German ladies croch.  I pick the wall.  I figure if I wait long enough they will get dressed.  Not so.  So I go to town to get dinner at sit on a park bench unti 7:00 and the restaurant opens.  The head man brings me a menue and I can make out combination dinners.  So i point and I actually luck out.  Egg and chips.....but get this.  Last night it was 8e to night it was 18e. 

But the people are friendly.....

Day 8

I must of needed the rest day more than I thought.  All I did was snuzz and then I pulled my boots and went to bed.  We did a smart thing in leaving the Alberque in Estella and finding a hotel.  I never realized that the Spain bike race was on and it took up all the beds in the town.  I did love the town though, very nice people.  Once again got up before the butt crack of dawn and headed out.  Just like in the, movie the way I stepped out onto the side walk and went the wrong way.  Had to turn around and follow the outher pilgrims out of town.  I left Peter the Doctor at the hotel he wanted another day of rest.  I actually forgot to pack socks but I did have  two pair.  Several days ago I was in a little mom and pop and they had some so I bought two pair.  I knew they were very thin like dress socks and I almost through them away.  This morning I got looking at them and decided that they may make a good skin sock.  Soil pulled them on and then put my heavy sock over them.  Worked like a charm.  My feet did so much better I may have to pass it on to pilgrims are us.  The pull out so Estilla was quite steep as usual but once I got out it was not so bad.  I was worried about today in that the last five miles there is no water taps, no food, no shade.  But St James was smiling at us poor pilgrims and caused it to be a high over cast, so it was a lot cooler then the other days we have had.  I didn't even need to wear my hat until about noon.  I pinned my ball hat to the pack and wore my floppy hat for shade, worked very well.  Just out side of town the Monks had a wine fountain.....see picture.  Yes free, can you imagine how happy that would make the residents of Pioneer Park in Salt Lake City.  Several pilgrims were toasting each other with cockle shale full of wine.  Some what traditional I guess.  After the fountain the road split, one could either go through the mountains or stay down low.  I was worried as to more rain so I took the low road.  In a  other couple of miles I stopped at a mom and pops and met up with about eight people from the first night in Orrison.  Hugs all around.  I must look like hammered ow.l shit in that every one asked me again how I was holding up.....no Im getting concerned.  And once again people would not believe I was raised in Utah....the accent thing again.  Coming across the valley it was wide open all I could see was the curvature of the earth and I just kept thinking where the hell could this town be hiding.  And then wa-la it was nestled in a little valley.  One of the great things the road out side of town was lined thick with black berries.....tasted so great.  I couldn't figure out why the villagers are not out picking.  Finially got into Los Arcos and found the Alberque where I could stay, but no bottom bucks, not on my room any way.  I left my small pack on the bed and went back out for the big pack when I came back I was challenged by a German lady if the pack was mine.  So I guess I am among honest people.  I told her I could tell her every thing in the pack, even the things that smelt the worst.

For all of you that's concerned I am well and looking forward to tomorrow.

Lesson for the day;  Just like pick up trucks, a man can't have too much hat.

More rest day.....

I finially figured out how illegals learn English so fast, it's through necessary things like wanting to eat or get some water.  I came out of my room at 2:00 the place was deserted, now at four, it's a mad house again.  Tried to find a shop to get a wider cooler hat...not going to happen. I see some pilgrims coming in looking for a room.  Yep we all walk the same.  I have a drug store across from my hotel I need to get some sun lotion if they ever open up.  It's true they all take a nap during the heat of the day.

I will tell you what old pilgrims (over 60) out number the younger, why I have no idea.

Need to go wash my socks.......

Lesson learned.......you can't shop when you want.......

To be continued......... 

Day 7

While getting ready to leave the alberque this morning I bumped into Peter from Austria young man in his late twentys and a medical doctor that speaks Spanish.  He noticed that I was holding back and I explained that I was going to have a rest day.  He said he was taking two in that his feet and legs were trash.  He went on to explain that the first pair of boots that he bought had cut the circulation off and his toe went numb so he bought a new pair. Just two weeks ago.  Not being broken in properly they lamed him.  He is going self medicate and then if that doesn't help he wil bail. We agreed to find a hotel or "pensioner" together.  He could hardly walk.  Across the stree from the Alberque was a little. Very clean bar that sold real sanwiches a drinks to the pilgrims.  I had a egg buddy a sweet roll and three cokes.  I don't want to be too graffic but I only need to pee once in the morning and once at night.  I drink real coke for the sugar and calories.  You can't believe how they slip down. While there I ran into Rich an attorney from Cal.  He's bailing.  Ran into Lucy this is her fifth time and she is bailing. She kissed me on both cheeks like the French do and started to cry. I am not sure why five times because her English is not that good, but it had to with the spirt of the way that she thrived on. Mike the strange one was in there from Oregon, he sat his bag down and was taking pictures yesterday and when he turned back around it was gone.  He spent the day with the police.  I offered him money in that every thing here is on a cash only bases.  He said he was fine that way and tapped his chest meaning he had a pouch around his neck.  He has to bail but said it's only temporary, he will be back.

Mary a teacher as Peter and I if she could hang with us today in that she needed a rest day and didn't want to be alone in the city.  She speaks Spanish very well so the answere had to be yes.  We all got our own rooms at the pensioner for 30e, works for me.  Very small ran by a very sweet lady in her late 80,s.  I still need to go back down and pay her and get my pilgrim passport stamped.  No stamp no staying at the alberques......very strict.  I have a death march to morrow of 13.1 miles the last seven miles there is no food or water.  I need to be very careful with this part.  

Lara from Panama was with us last night and I told her I needed tape for my feet.  We went in and spoke with the drugest he wrote down a note and told me to take it down the street to a different shop.  It turned out to be the tape you see on real sport people in all kinds of color.  Very pricey but well worth it.  I am well impressed with it.

Tomorrow I will be going from Estella to Los Arcos there is tow ways to go, one over a mountain and one around the mountain, not sure yet which trail I will take, but while writing this I actually feel the excitement welling up inside of me.  Could this be what they write about when they write as to the spirt of the way.  

Day six photo

Night shots......

Day 6

The beauty in the land I see is too much accretlly die scribe.  I have brought Somers camer with me and have a chip that's will hold three thousands shots.....I will need them.  It seems strange not having Tony and Peter along any more but with out them I am actually moving faster.  The temp is still in the low 90 and I feel it.  I have been very cautious as to my water supply.  The air is so not that my mouth drys out very quickly.  I bought some gum on my last stop, but it don't help much.  Soon as the flavor is gone I spit it out.  I now carry twice as much water then when I started out.  So in taking on more weight I need to take off some weight so I discarded my rain jacket.  I really think that now I am over the Pyrenees I won't need it any longer.  I also donated Somers camping pillow.  Sorry Som I will replace it when I get home.  My hoody will be the next to go. Came to a river that was very easy accessible.  Several pilgrims were in it but I knew if I did I would never get out so I passed it by.

Got into a small village that had a large fountain with three spicket going at the same time into a troph about waist high.  I stripped to the waist and held my head under a tap.  Oh by dee hell it felt good.  Couldn't get enough of it.......neve.lasted long though.  But I did replenish my supply.  A Spanish woman was trying to tell me it was stright from the mountain and good to drink.  From her broken English and gyrations I was sure she wanted me to touch her breast.  Something to do with the water was as good as mothers milk.   By the time I left a dozen pilgrims were all over it.....the fountain.

By the time I got into Estilla I was so tired I had my head down while looking for the municipal alberque.  I jhear some one holler hay mr Utah ( no one here remembers names) it came from the window of the Alberque I needed so I checked.  Cheep only 6e but again no food.

Rested up some, took a shower, and then went to dinner.  A lady from Panama ordered for me, it was only 8e and I couldn't eat it all.  Bought some tape for my feet and came back.  Door locks at 10:00

My plan was to walk six days and then rest one day.  I thought that instead of resting a full day I would just do a short walk, but in checking my map their is no where to stay and I am faced with about six miles of no water and no trees.  Si I decided to just hang back a day and give my legs a rest.  We need to all be out by 10:00 so I will check out to some camera stuff and then check back in for the night.  By dozing this I will see new pilgrims on the WAY in that we all are playing leap frog with each other.

Lesson learned........all the signs don't point in the right direction..

To be continued.......

Day 5

It was like  dajavou all over again.......Yoge Beare New York Yankies......

Peter announced at dinner he was done.  He tried to justify more to him self then to me.  It was just as well the heat would of gave him a stroke.  He and Tony walked me to the out skirts of town then we shook hands all around, and then shook hands again and then for a third time....I will miss them both.  It wasn't hard for me to find my way.  Every 10 feet they had pLaced a stainless steel disk in the side walk all you had to do is to walk one to the other until you found the path.  The second way was just watch the pilgrim in front of you.  To get out of the valley we had to clime from 400 to 800 Kim's.  Just like the   Pyrenees I beg my body to give me 20 steps then I would rest for 15 sec.  I counted.  Then I would give it another go.  Just before the top the friends of the camino placed a couple of benches in the shade of a large tree in the memory of someone who died on the trail.....that's good news.  I was poring my extra water into my filter bottle, hold the receipicunt between my knees when the bottle spun around and dumped my water on the ground.  I was screwed, I had about half cup in the giver bottle.  I thought the trail went past a farm house but to my rescue on top where the monument is was a lady selling drinks and snakes I was saved.  I bought two cokes and to bottles of water and sucked them down.  Bought two more water for the trail and was on my way. Cutting through the next town I lost the trail.  I knew I was going west so I kept on the move.  I kept looking to my left for fellow pilgrims but spotted none.  Then I found a sign again and in doing so looked to my right and they were all coming down the hill......so I wasn't far off.  Walking in to Puente La Reina I took the first Alberque that I spotted.  That was my best luck of the day.  I bought a dinner tickets for 13e.  While waiting I was taking to a lady from Panama.  A group of 6 pilgrims came up to our table and asked, where you from, we are trying to place your accent.  I told them I was from the States, they asked what state and I said Utah.  One of them said bull shit I live in Colorado and I have never heard any thing like it.  I laughed and told them I was raised in a little farm community that had their own language.  

But om hell the dinner was five stars hands down.  Your choice of beef, chicken, or fish.  Soup table and a do it your self salad bar,and then hand dipped ice cream....

Lesson learned......if you hold coke in your mouth until it goes flat it's the same as flossing.

Day 4

We have found that we need to be where we are going by no later then 4:00 P.M. In that if we are not then all the beds will be taking.  I don't know why they call it a walk across Spain, it should be called a walk up and down Spain.  The heat was killing peter and even with that we moved as quick as possible.  We got into Pampolna at 3:30 looking good or so we thought.  Peter had been here before and thought we should stay at the Jesus and Mary which had about 128 beds.  Peter was bushed and kept saying if you see a cab hail it down.  I seen a building on the sky line that had the cross of Jesus and pointed to it.  Look it's got to be that one it has a cross on it.  Richard, Steve says your in f'n Spain , their is a cross of Jesus on every f'n building in the city.  It seems though I was right we made it to the Jesus and Mary but no sooner we had then they put up the closed or I. Should say full sign.  They gave us a phone number to call the said no problem for four pilgrims.  We get there in a short walk and find that Joe shit the rag man and his wife went in the bedbusiness.  I just started to laugh.  Somewhere along the way we picked up wieared Mike.  Strange, strange man, but instead of leaving him on his own we asked him to come to dinner with us.  Food was great.  We usually get bread and jam in the mornings before heading out.  We were adivsed that we were on our own.  Go figure.

The picture I am attaching is not scaffolding it is braces to hold the building up.  I kid thee not.

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Lesson learned.......food is your friend, with out it you will die.